I have a hobbico superstar trainer and have flown it a few dozen or so times, after doing the manufacturers procedures for "run-in". but since I overshoot my landings because I am a beginner I have to throttle up and give it another go. Here's where my problem is... The engine dies and I end up landing dead stick on a short run way...Good expirience but not the way I want to end every flight that I overshoot:)

Hey Budah
Sounds like your low speed needle setting could use some work; sounds like it might be too rich (they usually are from the factory) The OS .40 LA has an air bleed for low speed needle, so I"ll tell you what worked for me & my OS .40 LA; start your engine,run it up w/ heat on the glow plug, set your hi-speed needle 2-3 clicks rich, and do not touch it again until you have completely set your low-speed setting (see the end of this diatibe); reduce rpm to lowest idle where it will still run w/ heat on the plug, remove heat; fi it dies, go counterclockwise on bleed screw 1/16 turn (to lean mixture) keep doing this protocol untill the engine will run @ idle after you remove heat and not lose any rpm. A tip; every time that you restart engine after it dies, run it up to full speed for 3-4 seconds to clear out the excess fuel in the crankcase, before you go back to idle. You want to get to a point where you lose no rpm @ idle when you remove heat. Now, make sure that you transition from idle to hi-speed smoothly with no stumbling or hesitation (if it stumbles, or "burbles", its still a little too rich, if it hesitates, its too lean); when you are satisfied that your transition is smooth, re-set your hi-speed needle to the instructions in your engine manual- 1-2 clicks rich. This info came from a great post done by one of the members of this site, TMILLS. You can go to his posts @ the members listing; his description of this procedure was the best that i've ever heard about this onerous procedure. I've used his suggestions/protocols many times, on a variety of brands, and its pretty close to perfection. Good luck!!!:D

Thanks for the insight. I checked Tmills post with your help. After reading it it makes soooo much sense. Surprised none of the "Old Timers" I fly with never told me that.... But thats why we have these wonderful forums....

Thanks again.
If the weather is good tomorrow I might just beable to Nail a landing ( Not DEAD STICK) :)

Well I leaned (ended up removing bleed air screw) it out as per you and Tmills and it transisioned smothly, runs great.....except when the aircraft is at idle and a positive pitch...The engine seems to die of fuel starvation. So what I did is replaced the bleed ar screw and riched it up a bit. It idles at all attitudes but the transition isn't as smooth, there is a burple but it doesn't stall at all!!!!!!!!!! If you have anymore insight that would be cool, but for now I am happy that (hopefully) there will be no more dead stick landings. My heart can't take that.........lol

Thanks,
Buddha

Hey Buddah!
Glad to pass on something useful; wish I had enough experience to have authored the original info. Wasn't that post of TMILL's great? I thought enough of it to print it out for my personal RC folder. You should see TMILLS fly!!! His flying is as good as his posts; he flies here @ Indy area, and sometimes comes to my field and really shows you how good you can get if you practice, practice, practice. Nothin' like stick time (and some common sense & patience) to make a fella' get better. Did I understand you to say that you had to remove the bleed screw altogether before you could get some decent idle? If yes, I would beleve that something else is afoot, like a tiny leak in the fuel induction side, or a loose or leaking pressure side. Maybe a loose or leaking joint @ the carb-to-case. I would try to isolate what else is funny, because the LA series is kind of average performance engine, meaning that it should be real easy to get it to run/idle great. Keep at it!! Good luck.
PS: Also make sure your glow plug is good (try a new one) What fuel are you using? What prop are you swinging? How much fuel has been throgh te engine (is it broken in thoroughly)?

I had to remove the screw to get it to transition smoothly but i replaced it because it wouldn't idle at a positve pitch. so now it idles at positive pitch but it doesn't have smooth transition after afew minutes of idle. it buprs a little but thats better than it stalling. I am using 10% nitro 20% castor and about 7/8ths of a gallon through it, I am spinning a 10X6 Master air screw. flew it today and no problems(dead sticks)!!! so it had to work. but Yeah it would be cool to see Tmills fly from what it sounds.
Oh actually I also found a problem with my clunk, there was no slot and the hole would sit right on the back of the tank blocking the fuel at positive pitch. So that seem to make a difference. Just replaced it.

I appreciate all the help you have been in my on going process of making my engine run better.

Thanks,
Buddha

Hey Buddha!
Finally got your handle right! IMHO, there is som'n else goin' on. Glad that your performance is better; nothin' beats calmer nerves. That your satisfied is all that matters. Good luck!:cool: :D

PS: I must have read your last post before it was finished; glad that you found the clunk problem. The fuel, and the prop seem to me to be OK for this engine. Might suggest that you try the procedure again after fixing the clunk (if you haven't already done so) Good luck!

good Idea ....Cool Thanks.

Thanks for the help. I've flown it about 20 flights and not on dead stick landing.

Hoo-rah

One last thought; its still a good practice to make sure of the validity of hi-speed settings each day that we fly. Temp & humidity will change from day to day. Its been my experience that the change from one day to another is small; maybe one click, followed by the vertical test, and adjustments, if required. Good luck!:D